Anyone can install a CoolBot! It takes 2-3 minutes.
No tools are required except your fingers.
No permanent modifications are made to the a/c units. There is no cutting or splicing of anything.
Detailed instructions with pictures as well as a toll-free support number come with your order.
Here's a YouTube video I made of me installing a CoolBot on the air-conditioner in our farm cooler. Even talking through it, it only takes a few minutes.
YouTube CoolBot Installation Video
**This video was made before 2013, when we still loved LGs. We no longer recommend them. Please see our A/C Size and Brand Recommendation page for our current recommendations.**
Here's a run-down of the steps required to install the CoolBot with your...
- Install any brand of window A/C unit which you've purchased separately. (See our A/C Size and Brand Recommendation to make sure you have the right air conditioner for your space) We just cut a sloppy hole in the wall of our home-built walk-in cooler with a chain saw, stuffed the A/C unit into the hole, and then used "Great Stuff" foam sealant (From Home Depot or Lowes) to seal up the gaps. **We have learned, that it is better to use some type of insulation, like foam sleeves for pipes, so that you can easily remove the a/c instead of having to carve it out.**
- Plug the CoolBot into a standard A/C outlet - it uses no more electricity to run than a cell-phone charger, so no special electrical connections are needed.
- There are three labeled wires coming out of CoolBot: The first (labelled "ROOM") measures the temperature of the room. Just let it hang free, be sure it is not making contact with any metal and not in the direct pathway of the cold air.
- The second wire (labeled "FIN Sensor") you stick into the front cooling fins of the A/C unit. This needs to be as low as possible, but ABOVE the first horizontal cooling tube. Use a pen or pencil to widen a space 1-2 inches up from the bottom and put the fin sensor 1/3 of an inch in so it is not touching the coolant pipes behind them. It stays there on its own. No tape or screws.
- The third wire (labeled "HEATER") attaches to the temperature sensor you see stuck to the front fins of your air-conditioner. (It's the only thing you'll see attached to the front fins of your A/C unit, so no guessing necessary!) Just wrap the CoolBot "HEATER" wire up with that air-conditioner temperature sensor using a small 1/2 inch by 1 inch piece of aluminum foil (included) to ensure a good thermal connection. Allow this foil pack to hang freely away from any metal or in the direct pathway of cold air.
- The CoolBot comes pre-programmed to cool your room down to 41 F (5 C), but you can set it to whatever you want. Click here for more information on how to program your CoolBot.
Here is a video of Ron illustrating how to remove the panel and disengage the secondary sensor
If you have a GE Window Unit that is over 12,000 BTU, most Kenmores, Arctic King, most Frigidaires, Comfortaire, Soleus, Black and Decker or Danby there will be a Secondary Sensor! This must be disengaged in order to work properly.
Look straight down from your air conditioner control panel area to the SIDE of the front fins. You'll see silver or copper colored coolant pipes. Look for a temperature sensor attached to the lowest or second lowest “U” of the coolant pipe. It could be attached with a plastic wire-tie, but usually it's stuck in a little copper cup welded onto the pipe. The sensor slips OUT of the sleeve. We use a “not-sharp” knife. Don't cut the sensor! You might have to cut some plastic ties holding it in place.
**On SOME a/c units (like GE units >15,000 BTU's) you can't see the coils until you remove the plastic cover, such is the case with the a/c pictured below. The person had to unscrew four screws to get it off and then it "POPPED" off with a flat-head screwdriver (which was apparently scary for them, but it doesn't hurt or crack anything). They then chose to keep it removed and attached their control panel to the neighboring wall.
Here is a picture of that secondary sensor if its behind the second panel:
And a close up of what it looks like:
Above 36F, just let the secondary sensor hang free outside the body of the a/c unit so it doesn't touch anything metal. BELOW 36F, use just 2 layers of electrical tape to attach the tip end of the secondary sensor to the OUTSIDE of the aluminum foil combination.
Split/ Mini-Split/ Ductless System
These notes are in *addition* to our normal instructions. Basically the set up is exactly the same -- all air conditioners have the same parts. But sometimes pieces on mini-splits are in slightly different locations. So read the normal instructions and then scan through these notes and it will be easier to set up.
We LOVE mini-splits. They are more efficient than conventional window air conditioners and they are extremely well built. The CoolBot runs perfectly on most all brands of mini-split (except for Panasonic, a major headache best avoided). Most commonly used brands of mini-split are: HAIER, LG, Carrier, Toshiba, Samsung, Klimaire... but so many others. If you want to get a brand other than these you'll probably be fine, but please feel free to email us to check to make sure!
**Before you install the Mini-split, look for the a/c thermostat and secondary thermostat, it's a lot easier when it's not mounted on the wall.
- You still stick our FIN sensor into the front fins on the mini-split (just like with the window units)-- but if you have a freeze up problem, then watch how the ice forms and move the sensor to where the ice first starts to form.
To explain further: With window units ice almost always starts on the bottom center, so start with that spot with the mini-split as well. In 5% or so of cases we've heard that the ice was starting from a different place, so IF you have a problem (95% sure you won't!) then look to see where the ice first starts to form and move the sensor there.
Be really careful about sticking the FIN sensor in the fins, because they can get SLICED on the sharp fins -- so open up a spot in the fins with a screwdriver or pen or pencil and then carefully insert the sensor into that spot, and then gently push the fins back around the sensor so it doesn't fall out.
Just as with a window unit, you only want to push the tip end of the sensor into the fins about 1/4-1/3 of an inch so the tip is full in the fins, but not sticking out the back side of the fins at all.
If you have to change the location of the sensor (95% sure you won't have to, but just in case!), it's VERY easy to "bend the fins" back into place after you pull the sensor out. They are very "bendy" aluminum so it doesn't hurt anything.
- Finding the ROOM sensor on the air conditioner is sometimes a bit harder with mini-splits than it is with window units. On window units it's right in the middle of the fins, but on mini-splits it's often on the top back side and it's a bit short.
So it's there (and it's the ONLY thing that's on the fins) but it can be a bit harder to see. That's why we tell people to try to find it before they install the mini-split on the wall, so you don't have to put your head in an odd angle to find it.
And sometimes it's hidden in other weird places! That's annoying. If you have trouble finding yours (the installer should know where the room sensor is) I can give you more ideas. So let me know after you've looked really well if you still can't find it and your installer can't easily point it out to you.
- SECONDARY SENSORS: This is also the same as with window units. It is covered in #9 of our instructions. Most mini-splits do not have secondary sensors, but a few have TWO sensors. If you see multiple secondary sensors, just remove the one that is
lowest and let it hang (don't attach it to the aluminum foil like I say to do in the instructions, that is unnecessary).
They are easy to find if you have them, attached to coolant pipes. In our instructions for window units I say that the sensors are put into COPPER CUPS attached the the coolant pipes. That's true with some brands of mini-splits, but more often I've seen that they are attached to the coolant pipes with plastic "wire ties".
You might not even have one! But if you hook it up and it's not getting very cold, or it's happening VERY slowly then it's worth looking to see if you do. That's it!
Here are some pictures of where to find the secondary sensor:
The mini-split with the housing taken off:
A close up on the right hand side where the secondary sensor is:
And this is what your looking for: